After Monument Valley we were hot and tired and set off down the road south-west. We did stop at Kayenta – just to see how a Burger King can make itself socially useful (the one in Kayenta has a display about Navajo Codetalkers from the Second World War). It plays unusual Burger King background music too but then we were still deep in the Navajo Nation area and why should everywhere be the same even in this corporate world? We had an ice-cream, read the boards and then drove on to our stop for the night in Tuba City.
We’d booked a night in the Moenkopi hotel in Tuba City, Arizona (good reviews online – how much have we been seeking tips and advice from fellow travellers?) and though it was a little more expensive than some of our bargain nights it really was enjoyable. The hotel is run by the local Hopi Nation (a Nation within the Navajo Nation, geographically speaking) and features all kinds of lovely little touches in its design (down to the local products available in the bathrooms). It is basically a good, modern hotel (great pool, helpful staff, slightly surreal breakfast in the connected and brand new Denny’s next door) but there is a little more to it as well – a real sense of pride that it is locally run. It was a good stop.
One surprise at this point though – we were expecting to change time zones as we left Arizona (and Mountain Time) but when we got to the Tuba City hotel they had two clocks up at reception (one with the label ‘Arizona time’ – eh?). Apparently part of Arizona doesn’t put its clocks forward at the summertime change (though the Navajo Nation does) and so part of the state ends up being more like Pacific than Mountain time. Confused? We were (and h is fairly obsessed with the whole time-change thing). It did mean we were up early enough to beat the breakfast queue though as we were still on Mountain time. At least I think we were.
After said breakfast it was time to get on with seeing one of the USA’s tourist jewels so we drove further south and west, left the Navajo Nation and entered the Grand Canyon National Park (see excellent photo of ranger who took our $25 on entry). We drove in from the east so saw the Little Colorado views first and then, once in the Park, went along Desert View Drive, stopping at many of the viewpoints along the way. Our first view of the Grand one was from Desert View with its really striking Watchtower (one of my favourite parts of the Canyon Park – well designed, with great Native American artwork, very attractive).
The snack bar nearby was not quite so attractive but we had a good natter with some Wiltshire travellers there (that’s Wiltshire, England) and then got back in the car to seek more views. We stopped at the Tusayan Ruin and Museum (quite a lot of information on the people who lived by the Canyon a couple of thousand years ago) and then we stopped at Grandview Point with all its information on past copper mining in the Canyon and the first hotels there built for early 20th Century tourists. We also stopped at the main visitor centre (very chilled – not nearly as much flogging of helicopter tours and so on as we’d expected, in fact none at all really which was quite a relief) and there we looked out at the Mather Point (complete with its marker to all the Native American peoples who “call the Grand Canyon home”). The latter is largely ignored by visitors as they rush to the viewpoints of course – it’s hard to compete with that big view.
By this time it was something like check-in time so we moved on to the area of the Grand Canyon Village where the lodges/hotels are all located. We’d booked fairly last minute but had still managed to get a reasonably priced room in the cheapest lodge (no views and furthest from the Canyon, but still only a five minute walk from the rim so absolutely fine for us). In fact the Maswik Lodge was quiet and spacious and had a really easy-going and not over-priced cafeteria so it suited us really well. It was fascinating talking to all the staff too (people from all over the States and all over the world). Most of the staff seemed to live in employee accommodation close to the lodges and I’m sure that especially for the younger ones this is no end of fun (very reminiscent of Euro-Disney in that regard).
After a quick cafeteria dinner we walked down to the rim to find the obligatory sunset-viewing-spot. The free shuttle buses were busy ferrying people to the favourite places for maximum viewing but it was a pretty cloudy evening and we were really not in the mood for crowded buses and jostling crowds (there were people from every corner of the world). Instead we found a nice friendly spot at the Lookout Studio and sat and watched the rocks and the sky and the people watching the rocks and the sky. We didn’t see the kind of sunsets that makes the postcards but it was pretty atmospheric and enjoyable all the same. We were the last ones to leave the Lookout Spot and it was nice to be alone with the view for a little while.
The next day (Sunday 15th) dawned sunny and windy and we checked out and then set off to walk along the rim a little (heading west). Again we decided against the crowded buses and just wandered as far as seemed suitable in the heat. From up on the rim path you get a good view of all the people heading off down into the Canyon on paths like the popular Bright Angel Trail but none of the routes down are suitable for children from what we could see and even if they had been they are all big hikes and not to be taken lightly. Even the mule trips down take ages and we’d had our animal encounter in Monument Valley the day before (without constant slopes) and didn’t feel the need for any more. Really we were more than happy to look down at the Canyon and across it. It’s strange how it looks almost unreal – completely like a painting (and at times a bit of a cheesey one, if you know what I mean). We did really enjoy the visit but I don’t think I’d call it one of the highlights of the trip or anything. It’s almost too much in some ways – beyond appreciation, perhaps. Or maybe we’re just weird.
One thing we didn’t know about Grand Canyon was that uranium had been mined at there (as well as copper) and not that long ago. Our walk passed close to the site of this activity and there was an information board about how they are trying to tidy up and get rid of any potential hazards on this section of the rim. Interesting, very interesting, and not much about it in the guidebooks.
One thing we very much enjoyed was watching the Navajo dancers we saw up by the South Rim Hopi House on Sunday lunchtime after our walk (there are lots of organised, and free, activities all around the park all the time). Despite the hefty gales the family of dancers did a great job (in some fine outfits) and it was a really special experience to watch them. H wanted to go and join in it looked such fun (and, apart from the impossible hoop dance, fairly doable even for newcomers). We had hoped to catch a Park Ranger-led activity too (there are lots of nature/geology/history talks and walks) but that didn’t quite work out (plus it was really hot in the sun) so instead we packed up and set off south. I suppose some people would find it hard to tear themselves away from those great rim views of the Canyon but somehow we didn’t feel that way. It was a good stop but it didn’t outshine the rest of the country for us or anything. Far from it.
On the way down the road we passed the place where they show the National Geographic IMAX movie of the Canyon and as we hadn’t taken the helicopter-over-the-beast option we decided to give this (much cheaper) flyover a try. It was OK but not particularly amazing (plus it was full of hot and slightly grumpy senior coach tours) and it mainly concentrated on people who have explored the Canyon (lots of shots of wild Colorado river activity – not nearly enough flying over the Canyon for my taste). We did however see an elk really close up when we pulled into the IMAX car park (very exciting). After that our GC trip really was over though and photos of this section of the tour are below (Mark took loads of the Canyon of course, as everyone does, and we’ve tried to pick our favourites):
9 comments:
Okay, NOW you've gone and made me jealous...Monument Valley..really?! It's one of the few places in the U.S. that I want to see before I die. Not so much the Grand Canyon (I don't know why) but M. Valley...I know it's because 80% of t.v. when I was a kid was westerns and I loved it! So kindly tell "h" that I am now officially in awe of her and her trek to my idea of mecca.
And as lover of all things Native American, this part of your trip has been my favorite...in case you're keeping vote counts. ;)
Happy trails! Safe journey!
Yes, we enjoyed it very much too. Now in LA... couldn't be more different!
x
Wow and double wow! Particularly to the cowgirl!
Is Fry Bread fried bread?
Also most impressed with Mark's non-tan. And the Twin Rocks. And especially the petrogryphs.
The geography is almost sensory overload, and actually leaves me speechless having only seen the photographs.
I am now wondering if your spirit guide is the lizard or the eagle. And started singing Steve Miller's 'Fly like an Eagle' straight after reading the post.
Are we going to Vegas? Are we, are we?!?
Most impressive slideshows! What an extraordinary gift you are giving H and yourselves. I am glad you got to spend time in the Navajo Nation and among the Hopi...my parents were at the same time charmed and a bit heartbroken when they visited this part of the country a couple of decades ago.
Titus,
The camera flash bleached my tan!
Titus - Fry bread is a bit like deep-fried naan bread... and you put icing sugar on it. Very nice fresh.
And as for Vegas... we stayed there on Monday night so yes there will be Vegas photos eventually. Bit non-stop at the moment.
CL - yes, we feel a bit spoiled at times. So much to see and do and take in! And yes, it's not all fun-fun-fun... we are trying to keep a balance (especially for h).
And the tan... I'm saying nothing.
x
As for Mark's
Ha! Just checking in before hitting bed. Got your guest room ready!
Cheers from Chris
P.S.
You were really blessed to have such marvelous clouds for your Grand Canyon trip.
Monument Valley!!!! Thank you!!!! I've never been there, and I loved the horseback view.
And finally, I can't believe how green the desert is. I haven't seen it so lush in years.
See you soon.
And we're gone again... thanks for having us Chris. We had a lovely time.
x
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